54°S

When we spoke last, we were in Ushuaia, a claimant to the southernmost city in the world. Since then we've been in the actual southernmost town, Puerto Williams. We took a small zodiac boat across the choppy Beagle Channel - the last of the season - before a truck for the 54 km along the only road to the only town on Isla Navarino.

The brave crew for the boat to Isla Navarino

We spent our time hanging out with the other two tourists in town. Handily, one was a physiotherapist and subjected me to an intense massage to sort my leg out. It seems to have worked - we managed to do a couple of excellent hikes on the island.

Puerto Williams and the Beagle Channel

The Bronces Waterfall

The first was to the Bronces waterfall, and the other to the peak behind Puerto Williams, Cerro Bandera (Flag Hill). They both gave a real sense of how isolated this place is - from the complete lack of other people to the number of birds that came really close to us. Cerro Bandera provided fantastic views of lonely Puerto Williams and the Beagle Channel beyond. We could also see the famed peaks of the Dientes de Navarino, if only from a distance. Of the few people that come here, a small number brave the 4-5 day trekking circuit in complete wilderness around these mountains. We decided to give it a miss this time!

Los Dientes de Navarino

After three days at the real 'end of the world', we caught the weekly ferry back to Punta Arenas. The 30-hour journey started more-or-less on time, until 10 minutes in it returned to port to pick up a lorry that had missed it. Strangely, one of the other lorries that had initially departed with us drove back into town and didn't return. The voyage was bumpy in places, but at other times we managed to see dolphins and seals against a glacier-carved backdrop.

The ferry back to Punta Arenas

We're now back in Punta Arenas where we're pondering our next move. It can only really be somewhere further north!