Life in Argentina

Argentina is an expensive country. We had been forewarned of this, but hadn't quite realised quite how much the high inflation is affecting prices. The prices quoted in guidebooks bear no resemblance to current ones - 25% is the inflation rate most quoted, but on average most things have tripled or even quadrupled in price since our book was published two years ago. A lot of places have prices written in pencil so that they can be changed often enough!

Life here happens at its own pace. A case in point is the afternoon siesta, which typically runs from around 1 until 4, but varies massively from place to place. One shop will be open at 2.30, but the next door one might not open until 5. The cafe after that might open at 3 but only on Sundays, and when you turn up it doesn't actually open until half past because the owner has overslept.

Spiral staircase (with stuffed eagles!) at the Museo del Hombre y del Mar, Puerto Madryn

Service in bars and cafes also occurs in a relaxed manner  - it's perfectly normal for the staff to serve you, then disappear for an hour somewhere. In one restaurant, the sole member of the waiting staff disappeared over the road for a fag, leaving the manager to wait tables. At another one, all of the staff spontaneously decided to clean the outside windows, while completely ignoring the customers. We are learning that this is just the way things work here - 'mañana' ('tomorrow!') is the mantra, and we just have to accept that things will happen when they happen. In fact, it's a refreshing change from the fast paced, supply on demand lifestyle we've grown perhaps overly accustomed to at home.

Another peculiarity of this country is its 'artesanal' products. Everything is 'artesanal' in Argentina, for example in Puerto Madryn we have sampled their tasty artesanal beer, bakery products and chocolate. It ostensibly means craft, or homemade, but we have even come across artesanal fish and artesanal laundry!

Slightly scary Jesus statue en route from Puerto Madryn to the Ecocentro

One of the lighthouse paintings at the Ecocentro

We have recently spent a lovely few more days in Puerto Madryn. Kev went diving with sea lions, which he enjoyed - spotting a nudibranch was a highlight as well as the sea lions. We visited the Museo del Hombre y del Mar, a museum mainly concerned with natural history, but also with some interesting history about the native peoples of Patagonia.

We also walked a picturesque 5 km along the coast to the Ecocentro, a modern centre concerned with marine life of the Patagonian sea and emphasising conservation issues. Together with science it had a second focus on art, with a beautiful exhibition of paintings of nearby lighthouses, as well as a thought provoking sculpture of a whale made entirely of litter that had washed up on the shore. It also had a cafe with excellent cake and beautiful views across the bay back towards the town.


Our next stop is Trelew, where we look forward to exploring the neighbouring Welsh villages (and associated teahouses).