Our Top 10 Cities of South America

As promised, here is the second of our South America summary style posts. Apologies for the delay - it turns out job applications / interviews etc take up quite a lot of time!

For us, South America was mostly about the outdoors - the real highlights, as you may have noticed in the last post, were the hiking, the scenery and the wealth of opportunities for outdoor and adventure activities. However, given that we definitely spent more time overall in towns and cities than elsewhere, it would be unfair not to give them a mention. So this time I've opted to write about our favourite cities of the continent. It seems an appropriate time to post this as the Olympic games are about to start in Rio - which definitely makes our list, as you will see. I've also looked back on our stats to provide you with some info about how long we stayed in each of these cities, and some hopefully helpful hints for you if you were to visit. So, ordered by preference this time, here are our top 10.

10. Córdoba, Argentina (6 nights)

Córdoba was never actually on our list of places to visit. It didn't really fit into our planned route, and Lonely Planet focused mainly on the city's reputation for partying and nightlife. However, near the end of the trip we found ourselves in central Argentina with some unexpected time to spare.We made a quick decision and got on a nightbus from Mendoza. Córdoba turned out to be very pleasant - a beautiful colonial city, with several universities so a great atmosphere, with lots of students around but not many tourists. Córdoba is also ideally located for visits to the surrounding hill ranges, the Sierras Chicas and Sierras Grandes, and the Quebrada del Condorito national park - one of the best condor viewing opportunities in all of South America.

The striking Capuchin church in Córdoba

Hints: You only need a day or two in the city itself to appreciate the sights, although it is a nice place just to chill out for a while. The UNESCO-listed Jesuit church is a must-see. There are several options nearby for hiking - try Capilla del Monte, Mina Clavero or La Cumbrecita (all of these would be best spending a night or two there rather than going from Córdoba for the day). Don't miss the Quebrada del Condorito, which is doable as a day trip from Córdoba.

9. Valparaiso, Chile (5 nights)

Most people fall in love with picturesque Valparaiso, and we were no exceptions. The city sits on the coast of Chile, only an hour or two by bus from Santiago and just south of Viña del Mar, one of Chile's most popular beach resorts. Valparaiso is famous for its hills, of which there are over 40. The colourful houses are squeezed up the sides of the hills, often built on such steep sections that you wonder how the floor could be horizontal! Some of the hills have little funicular railways to take you up - great fun. The city is also known for its street art: practically every available house and wall is covered in striking designs and patterns. You could spend hours looking at them! It was well worth doing the free walking tour, which took us to see some of the highlights.

Street art in Valparaiso

Hints: 2 or 3 days is fine - Valpo is more about absorbing the atmosphere and wandering the streets than any specific sights. We found an amazing place to stay  here - Costa Azul, a little B&B run by a Slovenian couple with wonderful sea views.

8. Buenos Aires, Argentina (9 nights)

It has to be said that we weren't massively enamoured with Buenos Aires on our first visit. It was our first destination of the whole trip, and it was quite underwhelming! On this occasion, we stayed in the very centre of the city. It was great to be within walking distance of some of the main attractions, e.g. the main square and the Casa Rosada (office of the president). But we didn't feel that the place had much of an atmosphere. It was hard to find restaurants in the centre that were open for dinner, and we didn't feel all that safe walking some of the streets at night. And on Sunday the place was completely dead!

The Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires

However, on our return to Buenos Aires at the very end of our trip, we had quite a different experience. We stayed this time in Palermo, a fairly upmarket, almost hipster-ish area a few stops on the Subte (metro) out of the centre. Perhaps it helped that we had a friend living here this time - plus a much better grasp of Spanish and more of an idea of what to expect from a South American city in general - but we enjoyed the city a lot more. Palermo was lovely - really buzzing, with busy cafes and restaurants lining the streets, little boutique type shops and even a few craft beer bars! There were lots of young people around and a culture of sitting at the tables outside the cafes for a coffee and a chat despite the cold weather at this time of year. We didn't really do anything specific, just strolled around the streets and the pleasant parks nearby, absorbing the vibes. By the time we left, we'd quite changed our opinion of Buenos Aires. In fact, we decided that if we were to live in any of the South American capital cities, it would be this one.

In the Japanese garden, Buenos Aires

Hints: We'd recommend devoting about 4-5 days to Buenos Aires. Stay in Palermo or Recoleta rather than the centre - or spend two nights in the centre (not at a weekend!) and then another two or three in a different district.

7. Cuenca, Ecuador (8 nights)

Cuenca is the kind of place you intend to stay two days and end up staying a week. First of all, it's a really pretty city, with a UNESCO listed historic centre. There are also some Inca ruins within the city itself, outside the Pumapungo museum. Secondly, we found it was one of Ecuador's best cities for restaurants - we ended up eating out nearly every night, and had some amazing food. Our favourite, Salvia, which has sadly now closed, was actually run by an English couple! For my birthday Kev treated me to a meal at Tiesto's - a seafood specialist restaurant renowned throughout the country. It was superb.Thirdly, Cuenca is close to the spectacular Las Cajas national park. And finally, it has an amazing zoo! Not your average zoo, more like a hike that takes you up past the (large) animal enclosures.

The impressively domed New Cathedral in Cuenca

Hints: Cuenca's definitely worth spending more time than you think...

6. Cartagena, Colombia (9 nights)

Cartagena is right on the Caribbean coast and probably Colombia's most popular destination for foreign and Colombian tourists alike. The city is one of the best examples of colonial architecture you will find. Meandering through the pretty streets, you find yourself taking a photo every other step. It also has a real Caribbean feel to it, from the cuisine to the music to the ethnicity of the people. The impressive San Felipe fortress was nice to wander around and had some cool underground passages to explore. We also went up to the La Popa convent, which has amazing views of the city and out to sea. Cartagena has a fantastic atmosphere too - in the balmy evenings people sit outside in the squares socialising and drinking, often with live music.

One of Cartagena's many picturesque little streets

Hints: Avoid Cartagena during peak season (Christmas and January) - prices skyrocket and everywhere is booked up! The major sights of the city only take a day or two, but it's such a nice place we'd advise allowing plenty of time just for relaxing, exploring and photographing.

5. Punta Arenas, Chile (10 nights)

Punta Arenas is one of the contenders for the southernmost city in the world - and it probably takes that title, being substantially larger than Argentina's Ushuaia further south. What can I say about Punta Arenas? Just that we liked it, really! The city had quite an orderly, English feel to it, and a pleasant seafront to stroll along. There were several museums, all worth a visit but surprisingly difficult to ascertain if / when they were open. Punta Arenas seems to have quite a local feel, despite being a common starting point for Antarctic cruises, and we much preferred it to the crowds of package tourists in Ushuaia. There's a cemetery that we really liked - nicer than the famous La Recoleta in Buenos Aires we thought. It's also a good base for various activities nearby, especially the striking, volcanic Pali Aike national park.

Seabirds on an abandoned pier in Punta Arenas

To be fair, when we returned to the city at the very start of spring on the way to meet my family in southern Argentina, we were less enthused by the prospect of living there. Our plane landed in the strongest winds either of us had ever experienced - over 150 kph - and we were then stranded at the airport for hours as there were no taxis!

Hints: As with all of Patagonia, we'd recommend visiting during shoulder season to avoid peak season but also avoid the worst of the winter. March / April and October / November are good times. Don't bother visiting Fort Bulnes.

4. Cusco, Perú (7 nights)

As the capital of the former Inca empire and the obvious base for trips to Macchu Picchu, Cusco is deservedly popular. Up at nearly 3400 m above sea level, it can take a while to adjust to the altitude if you're not accustomed to it. The city is simply stunning. There is still a great deal of the original Inca architecture - you can admire the Incas' amazing craftsmanship as you wander past walls built out of gigantic stone blocks, with no mortar necessary to join them together. The whole area around Cusco is also rich in Inca heritage, with several other very impressive sites to visit (not least Macchu Picchu of course).

Inca walls in Cusco

Hints: Be wary of the altitude! We had no problems as we'd been up above 2500m for several weeks already, but we did hear some horror stories of people who'd flown straight in from Europe and felt pretty awful. We'd suggest going to somewhere like Arequipa (2400m ish) first to acclimatise.
Due to the number of tourists that flock here, Cusco is home to some great restaurants, bars and accommodation. Prices are substantially higher than elsewhere in Perú however. We'd recommend spending plenty of time in and around the city - 5 days to a week (not including Macchu Picchu!).

Inca terraces at Moray, near Cusco

3. Sucre, Bolivia (10 nights)

Sucre was by far our favourite city in Bolivia. It's the constitutional capital and is known as the 'White City', with tons of attractive colonial buildings mostly painted, as you might guess, white. It's also a great place to study Spanish - there are several Spanish schools, all with the cheapest prices you'll find anywhere in South America. We'd recommend Me Gusta. Just outside Sucre you can visit a wall covered in genuine dinosaur footprints, millions of years old - pretty cool! And the surrounding Cordillera de los Frailes is spectacular. We did a 4 day hike here with Condor Trekkers and had an amazing time, sleeping in tiny villages and walking through stunning, colourful landscapes. The local bus back to Sucre was quite insane though!

The San Felipe Neri convent in Sucre

Hints: do a Spanish course, do a trek, don't miss the great cafes around the main square.

2. Arequipa, Perú (5 nights)

Arequipa is in some respects quite similar to Sucre - for one, it is Perú's 'White City', with ornate buildings built mainly from sillar, a white volcanic stone. The vividly painted 16th century Santa Catalina Convent was a real highlight. We loved the city not just for the architecture but the wealth of fantastic restaurants (Zingaro was our favourite), chocolate shops, cafes and bars. Arequipa is also well situated for adventure activities - we did some whitewater rafting / kayaking nearby, as well as a three day trek through the spectacular Colca Canyon.

Inside the Santa Catalina convent, Arequipa

Hints: don't stay in Dreams Boutique Hotel (very disappointing!), do go to the Arequipa Beer Club (handily situated right near the convent, has an amazing selection of beer). Go to the Colca Canyon for a 2-4 day trek - no need to go on a tour, it's far better to do it yourself.

The Colca Canyon - the scenery was jaw-dropping

1. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (8 nights)

Of all the South American cities we visited, there is really no competition for the top place in this list. Rio was just incredible. Basically, it has everything! Absolutely stunning, picture perfect beaches; rainforest areas with many species of monkeys, marmosets, butterflies and much more; hills / mountains - most obviously the celebrated Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf) and Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer); great music (most famously Samba); tasty food (mmm, feijoada); amazing colonial architecture; museums galore; and a fascinating history. It is surely one of the most visually spectacular, beautiful cities in the world - and so much to see and do too.  We spent 8 nights and could easily have stayed a lot longer.

Sugarloaf Mountain, taken from Fort Duque de Caxias

It seems a shame to me that Rio is getting a bit of a bad press at  the moment with the media scaremongering and claiming that the Olympics will be a fiasco, etc. Yes, there is a political crisis. No, the water is not drinkable (along with many other countries in the world, some of which have doubtless also hosted big sports events). Yes, there is a zika outbreak (I had what was almost certainly zika: it's like a mild flu! There's no risk unless you are pregnant or trying to get pregnant). It's interesting that the media is more focused on zika than, say, dengue, which is also widespread in Brazil.

Beautiful late sunset view over Botofago, from the Morro da Urca
(hill on the way up to the Sugarloaf)

Hints: Allow a lot of time - we'd advise a week at least. Bear in mind that during the summer months (December - March) it is so hot that you will struggle to do much during the heat of the day. We stayed in the bohemian Santa Teresa district, near the city centre, which was lovely. Lots of tourists also head for Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. Don't miss sunset from Sugarloaf mountain and from Ipanema beach; hike up (or down) Corcovado rather than getting the train; try the national dish (feijoada) and drink (caipirinha); also try pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) and the açai berry slush puppies that are sold everywhere; and make sure you visit the excellent National History Museum.We heard the nearby city of Petrópolis is worth a visit too, though we ran out of time!

How could I write about Rio without putting a photo of Christ the Redeemer?

A few other honorourable mentions that didn't quite make the cut for top 10: Valdivia, Chile; Santiago, Chile; La Paz, Bolivia; Quito, Ecuador; Medellín, Colombia; Bogotá, Colombia; Salta, Argentina; Mendoza, Argentina.

Hope you've enjoyed this post. As ever, if you or anyone you know is heading to South America soon, feel free to get in touch and hit us with any questions you might have. We're keen to help (and travel vicariously through others, haha)! You can also check out my tripadvisor profile if you're interested - I've reviewed most places we've stayed, restaurants we've been to and attractions.

More to follow in the next few weeks!